Science Centre

Have you tried a retinol-based cream or serum and felt it dries you out or is causing problems when you apply it? sounds familiar right?

We combined three differing forms of retinol in RESTORE, providing 0.3% active retinol. These are 0.1% sodium retinoyl hyaluronate (Hyretin), 0.1% retinyl palmitate, and 0.1% retinol. 

1. Retinol hyaluronate or Hyretin – Imagine combining a water magnet with retinol molecule thereby giving it tolerability. is a very low molecular weight derivative of Hyaluronic acid with Retinoic Acid. This is a very stable formula which is made by combining a hydrophilic with a hydrophobic molecule thereby. The very low molecular weight allows it to penetrate deep into the layers of the skin and provide excellent hydration due to the HA. This attracts water to the skin from the deeper layers thereby hydrating it and preventing dryness and flaking. This works in conjunction with the fantastic anti-aging and anti-oxidative properties of retinol.  Hyretin has anti-inflammatory properties, increases production of collagen and fibronectin. Moreover, it does not irritate the skin, reduces erythema and penetrates deep into the skin thereby improving skin elasticity and texture. Hyretin does all the above and also makes the skin hydrated. A Tri Retinol Complex makes this formula highly effective, and the liposomal form helps in enhanced penetration of the actives into the skin. 

• Enhanced collagen expression in your skin after 8 weeks of hyretin use was better than other forms. 
• https://www.contipro.com/images/ProductLists/HYRETIN.pdf 

2. Encapsulated retinyl palmitate – A micro encapsulated form of retinol which enhances the stability of the retinol and ensures that it does not get oxidized and provides tolerability due to slow release. Imagine a capsule around your retinol molecule so it does not irritate you and slowly is released for long lived benefits. 

Moreover, the encapsulation allows for protection of the molecule as its notorious for its instability when exposed to light. 

Bakuchiol is a rather old molecule now out in newer forms, it’s been known as babchi in hindi, ravoli in Sri Lanka; Boh-gol zhee in Korea and Buguzhi in Chinese. It has demonstrated a host of properties such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-tumor. 

Bakuchiol is found in the Psoralea corylifolia plant leaves and seeds, also a vegan skincare product. It is a natural and organic skincare ingredient that helps to take on the signs of aging. Bakuchiol has potent antioxidants, visibly reduces skin discolorations from environmental exposure, and provides a soothing effect on the skin.

Studies and research have shown that bakuchiol has a variety of anti-aging benefits for the skin. It has various good properties that reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, help restore firmness, refine skin texture, and even out skin tone. Bakuchiol helps to soothe the skin, making it a good choice for those whose skin shows signs of sensitivity. When combined with retinol, bakuchiol can help stabilize it and keep it effective longer. Another benefit of using products that contain both bakuchiol and retinol is that bakuchiol's calming ability may enable the skin to tolerate higher amounts of retinol. We have combined Bakuchiol with silymarin and a triple acid complex in EXFOLIATE to give you anti aging benefits, even tone and yet make it tolerable for use. 

Afzal N, Sivamani RK. Finding the right Bakuchiol: Choose wisely. J Cosmet Dermatol.

2023;22:1967-1968

Bakuchiol is a small molecule that safely mimics the properties of retinol in reversing signs of aging, providing skin protection from sun-induced damage, providing solutions to problem skin, like acne and rosacea, and modulating pigmentation control, is a greatly sought after ingredient. Its similarity to retinol is not just suggested but demonstrated through its retinol-like regulation of gene expression. The molecule has been shown to inhibit different free radical-producing systems and increases the function and effectiveness of antioxidants naturally present in the body. (that’s amazing, isn’t it?) Moreover, Bakuchiol has ability to protect oxidation of your natural skin lipids such as squalene, thereby preventing their breakdown, making it not only a very tolerable alternative, but also effective in retaining lipids of the skin barrier. In a “head-to-head” comparison with retinol bakuchiol has demonstrated similar ability in enhancing expression of aquaporins in the skin but was higher in its ability to enhance expression of E cadherin thereby increased skin hydration and elasticity. 

Bakuchiol alone and particularly when combined with salicylic acid (as in EXFOLIATE) has shown promising effects in reducing acne. It works by down-regulating enzymes such as 5α-reductase which have a direct effect on the oil gland; inhibiting, if not killing, P. acne bacteria present in acne-affected skin, quenching radicals and non-radicals and reducing pro-inflammatory activity. Alongwith its magical effects mentioned above bakuchiol is a tyrosinase inhibitor (the enzyme which helps in making pigment), which means it can help in decreasing pigmentation in a dose dependent manner, without being toxic to the cells. 

In all bakuchiol appears to be here to stay and when combined with a few other agents can help in acne induced pigmentation, anti-aging and uneven skin. 

Consult a certified dermatologist to know more and get the right formulation for yourself.

Several studies have shown that topically applied TXA is also effective against melasma and skin hyperpigmentation caused by sunburn and inflammation. Tranaxemic acid helps in the vascular component of pigmentation and particularly in patients with melasma, post acne reddish marks and pigmentation with sensitive skin.