What is retinol?

Retinol, also called vitamin A1, is a fat-soluble vitamin in the vitamin A family that is found in food and used as a dietary supplement. Typically used for skin care and in formulations used for anti-aging, fighting fine lines and wrinkles and attaining an even tone. 

Are there different kinds of retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A derived from the family of retinoids. While there is only one retinol, there are numerous derivatives of Vitamin A, which fall under the umbrella of topical retinoids. In terms of strength the retinoids are denoted below, from the most tolerable and low potency being retinyl palmitate which undergoes conversion eventually to retinoic acid. 

What’s the Tri Retinol Complex (TRC)

TRC refers to providing the old and the new in a formulation, making it tolerable for the consumer and at the same time effective. 

TRC combines a total active retinol concentration of 0.3% :

• Encapsulated retinyl palmitate 0.1%
•  Encapsulated retinol 0.1%
•  Hyretin – Hyaluronic acid combined with retinol 0.1% 

What’s encapsulated Retinol?

Encapsulation allows for the retinol molecules to be enclosed in protective capsules, which further allows for controlled and gradual release on the skin, reducing the potential for adverse effects such as redness and irritation and enhances effectiveness. 

Whats Hyretin?

This is a very low molecular weight derivative of Hyaluronic acid with Retinoic Acid. This is a very stable formula which is made by combining a hydrophilic with a hydrophobic molecule thereby. The very low molecular weight allows it to penetrate deep into the layers of the skin and provide excellent hydration due to the HA. This attracts water to the skin from the deeper layers thereby hydrating it and preventing dryness and flaking. This works in conjunction with the fantastic anti-aging and anti-oxidative properties of retinol. 

This molecule has a micellar-like structure which is highly stable and hydrophilic thereby penetrating deep into the skin. This also makes it highly effective at a lower concentration. This is magical when it comes to fine lines and wrinkles.

How do I start my retinol application?

Retinol application can be started in the following manners:

• A gentle retinol derivative, low concentration retinol (< 0.5%) or tri retinol complex every other night or every night for individuals with normal to oily skin. 
• Every alternate night for individuals with normal to oily skin. 
• With dry or sensitive skin one may consider using retinol as “short contact”, i.e, few hours on alternate nights OR first use a moisturizer, followed by retinol and then the moisturizer again (sandwich technique).  Start by applying retinol 1-2 times per week for the first two weeks. Gradually increase the frequency to every other night, and then potentially to every night, as your skin becomes more accustomed to the product.
• One may start with low concentration and then slowly move up the ladder. 
• One may start with gentle derivatives and then move to retinaldehyde and finally to prescription retinoids under dermatologist supervision
•  Always use sunscreen in the day 
• Applying retinol to damp skin can increase the risk of irritation and sensitivity, as well as create a barrier that hinders proper absorption.
• Avoid in pregnancy and lactation.

How to avoid redness, flakiness, dryness and purging during initial stages of retinol application?

Some level of mild irritation is common when starting retinol. Gradually introducing retinol into your skincare with a lower concentration of 0.1% routine is the key to minimise these initial side effects while still reaping the benefits of retinol.

Precautions to keep in mind-

• Perform a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any adverse reactions or sensitivity.
• Use a small amount (about a pea-sized) of retinol for your entire face. Applying too much can lead to increased irritation.
• Avoid other exfoliants when starting retinol such as AHAs and BHAs. 

 Always use a moisturizer post retinol application. Be mindful of areas close to the eye and the lower face.

Who shouldn’t apply retinol?

• dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin 
• patients with eczema and rosacea or active infections 
• pregnant and lactating women 
• patients with active, comedonal acne (black heads and white heads) should avoid retinol application or do it under dermatologist supervision as this may lead to purging. 

Which skincare products and ingredients are suitable for use in conjunction with retinol?

• A mild cleanser, soap free, with a a balanced pH, and hydrating agents to maintain your skin barrier.
• A broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen.
• Moisturizer preferably with ceramides to restore the skin barrier. 
• Vitamin C serum, niacinamide, peptides – maybe used safely with retinol 
• Exfoliants such as AHA, BHA etc. – use if the skin is tolerating the retinol well. 
• Consult your dermatologist for the best routine. 

What skincare products should be avoided or used with caution when incorporating retinol into your routine?

Retinol tends to cause exfoliation so one has to be mindful adding any other exfoliating active or strong, concentrated ingredient into the regimen as this may either lead to excessive exfoliation which is perceived as dryness, flaking, redness etc or sensitivity.  Here is a breakdown of products to be cautious with:

• Topical prescription retinoids
•  Benzoyl peroxide 
• Azelaic acid 
• Strong exfoliants containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) 
• Alcohol-based toners or astringents can be dry and exacerbate the dryness and irritation that retinol can cause.
•  High concentration Vit C 

Can I use retinol when I am pregnant or lactating 

No retinol is avoided when pregnant and lactating